As the saying goes, we live where other people vacation. Florida is home to some of the most revered destinations in the U.S., providing a cornucopia of staycation options just a short drive from anywhere in the state. This week, we take a short jaunt across the Sunshine Skyway to explore downtown St. Petersburg, a city quickly building a reputation as a bastion of cosmopolitan culture.
We began our weekend with a tour of the St. Petersburg Distillery, an artisan operation that crafts fine spirits on the ascendent south side of the city. Master Distiller Warren Gardner gave us a behind-the-scenes look at the art of crafting small-batch spirits. We had learned of the distillery by way of its outstanding spiced rum, Old St. Pete. We were even more pleasantly surprised, however, when we sampled the barrel-aged agave spirit that is “Experimental Batch No. A24,” a delicious tequila-like offering that drinks smooth as silk while still packing a powerful punch.
Stop by the distillery shop to pick up a bottle from their full line of craft spirits and liqueurs. The Pinellas Trail snakes along the north side of the distillery, and the adjacent “Trail Garden” provides a serene spot to imbibe their full slate of craft cocktails while enjoying the culinary offerings of award-winning executive chef David Reyes. The team behind the distillery has big plans for its 30-acre campus, which could transform a former industrial site into an economic engine on the south side.
Where to Stay
We stayed at the 1888 Hotel, a chic boutique offering right on the edge of the heart of downtown—a convenient location without as much noise and bustle as the few that are closer to the action. Originally opened in 1923 as the Hotel Hillcrest, this historic building has undergone meticulous renovations to deftly blend iconic character with modern luxury. The large suites include every touch of home one could hope for, including a full kitchen and all imaginable wares.
Attention to detail is at the forefront of every element of design and decor, from the impossibly comfortable beds and bedding to the spa-like shower and mid-century aesthetics. In addition to the spacious suites, there’s a lovely balcony with streetscape views as well as two gorgeously appointed common areas in the lobby, from which guests can take respite from the summer heat. Think of it as five-star hotel meets the perfect short-term vacation rental.
The location was also key. A short walk from Beach Drive, the Pier, and the busiest part of Central Ave, you can access an endless array of entertainment, dining, shopping, and nightlife options. As a bonus, the lovely MUST Wine Loft is right next door.
From small bites and local haunts to world-class fine dining
Travel + Leisure recently named St. Petersburg the best food city in the United States, and if you dare scoff at the notion, you clearly have not explored the culinary scene of “the Sunshine City” recently. From hole-in-the-wall institutions to haute cuisine of the highest order, you would be hard-pressed to find another city of less than 250,000 (or even considerably larger) with better gastronomic bona fides.
Breakfast options abound, from healthy offerings to high-end brunch, but if you love a quintessential greasy spoon, check out Central Diner (formerly Central Coffee Shoppe) on Central Ave. It’s got everything you would expect, including perfect corned beef hash, but if you’re nursing a big head after a night on the town, go with John’s Special, a mountain of morning comfort food at an unbelievable value.
Coffee is high-art in St. Pete, with several local roasters offering cafes. Kahwa is the city’s most notable name, but for a more artisanal experience, check out Gypsy Souls or one of Black Crowe Coffee’s two locations. Bandit Coffee, Foxtail Coffee, and Arts Cafe inside the Museum of the American Arts and Crafts Movement also offer excellent java.
I was pleased to learn that downtown St. Pete has a Poppo’s, but if you like Cuban sandwiches, you’ll be thrilled to know that Tampa has nothing on St. Pete. You can get an exquisite Cuban right downtown at Bodega, but the St. Pete standard, Simply Delicious, is the kind of whole-in-the-wall joint you know is going to be good as soon as you pull up and it's worth the short drive uptown to Kenwood. The recently opened St. Pete location of Tampa standard La Segunda on 4th Street is also worth venturing away from downtown for and will probably best satisfy those who are sticklers for tradition.
The burger scene is competitive with Bradenton’s vaunted eateries. From the iconic El Cap to the institution that is Dead Bob’s to downtown’s Engine No. 9, or venturing out a bit to the Pasadena Bar & Grill, the burgers will live up to those of us steeped in the lure of Skinny’s, Shake Pit, Council’s, Duffy’s, and S.O.B.
You don’t have to look hard to find good tacos, but the very best in the 727 are located in a converted gas station on 22nd Ave called Chile Verde. These hyper-authentic Mexican tacos are every bit as good as those at Accopulco Tropicale near the TBT offices. While you’re there, head west a couple of blocks to the legendary Mazzaro’s Italian Market, where the bakery, Italian coffee bar, and take-and-bake Italian staples are otherworldly. You won’t find a better cannoli, cappuccino, or Italian wedding soup in the area. Mazzaro's also offers a first-rate wine shop, deli, and you can dine in on their portico.
Wine City, USA!
Oenophiles rejoice because downtown St. Pete is a wine lover's delight! In addition to the near-infinite number of impressive wine lists at fine dining spots, a laundry list of wine-centric cafes dot the downtown. A few blocks from MUST, you can enjoy the dark environs of Dracula's Legacy, a fun wine bar that's more upbeat than most.
Our favorite wine bar was bin6south, a tiny little treasure with a well-curated list and great small plates. Sauvignon Wine Locker & American Trattoria was a close second, but we had to tap out before heading around the corner to The Cork Room, unfortunately.
On previous outings, we immensely enjoyed CellarMasters Wine Bar and Bottle Shop, a well-curated shop where you can uncork in a beautifully appointed lounge for a modest corking fee. Lolita's Wine Market, which recently relocated, is another sure-fire winner when it comes to good vino and small plates. If you make it out to St. Pete Beach, be sure to check out Decanter Wine & Tapas Bar, where husband-wife team Miguel and Nilead welcome you into their charming space with the warmth of family members.
Fine Dining
There are so many fine dining options in St. Pete that it was very difficult to narrow our choices to just three, but we were not the least bit disappointed with our selections. We kicked things off at Rococo Steak, a top-tier steakhouse on par with the very best in the U.S. Rococo boasts of its “modern take” on steak, acknowledging that it may offend the strict traditionalist.
Personally, I was pleased by their willingness to make jazz with the finest dry-aged cuts, but it was the non-steak items that I found most surprisingly delicious. The New Zealand elk with English pea, asparagus, preserved mushroom, and yogurt was sublime, but the roasted duck with mushroom and fingerling potatoes may be the best duck dish in the region. The beef tartare was the star of the starters, while honey lavender cheesecake stole the show on the dessert menu.
Top it off with a 1,280-label, 4,000-bottle wine list that has earned Rococo Wine Spectator’s “Best of Award of Excellence” for nine years running, service that sets the standard for the region, and quintessential upscale contemporary ambiance, and you can see how even five stars seems like too few for this local treasure.
Next, we tried Allelo on Beach Drive. This newish gem is a foodie paradise of the highest order, especially since Michelle Richards was added as Wine Director, Sommelier, and General Manager. Having a true wine connoisseur at the helm has made an enormous difference not only in the quality of the wine list but also in the thoughtfulness of the available pairings. Richards’ passionate attention to detail is also evident in every menu offering.
We had actually been to Allelo once shortly after it opened and found it good, but not an eatery that would stand out in the crowded St. Pete scene. That is no longer the case. Head chef Nick Ocando has elevated the menu to the city’s top tier. I found the beef tartare to be on par with Rococo’s and the charred octopus to be the best in a city that seemingly offers it on nearly every menu. Because of its size and shape, it is difficult to get a deep char while keeping the flesh buttery and moist, but Allelo offers an inspired version that will not disappoint.
Oyster service and Snapper Crudo were favorites on the apps menu. The branzino (European seabass) with preserved lemon, black quinoa, and salsa verde was pure perfection, and the 24 oz. bone-in strip loin would be at home at any top-tier steakhouse. From the dessert menu, strawberry shortcake with honey-thyme ricotta, balsamic, and basil; and olive oil cake with hazelnut, toasted Madeira meringue, strawberry, and orange were easy choices, and both exceeded what had already become high expectations. Allelo has arrived.
Having recently reviewed Chef Fabio Viviani's Taverna Toscana in downtown Bradenton, we were eager to check out his downtown St. Pete restaurant, Taverna Coastale. A similar concept that leans more toward seafood than steak (though both locations give ample offerings of each), Taverna Coastale is another uniquely utilized space within a much larger building. The decor and ambiance at Coastale are just as arresting as Toscana's, and the food is every bit as delicious.
Both eateries share several menu items, although there is often a twist. Having thoroughly enjoyed the charred Octopus at Toscana, we couldn’t pass it up, even after enjoying Allelo’s the night before, and were not disappointed. Less charred and more flaky, the diner’s preference will prevail.
Squid-ink linguini with Frutti di mare, mussels, clams, shrimp, calamari, heirloom tomatoes, and garlic was a compelling twist on a dish I’m quite familiar with. Orecchiette Vongole with clams and vino blanco was the all-star of our pasta dinner, and we were happy to have saved some of the delicious focaccia to sop up its ample broth. Like Toscana, Taverna Coastale’s wine list runs the gamut, offering well-selected value bottles to rare vintages.
Night Life
While the culinary delights of St. Pete are almost overwhelming, the city is just as impressive in terms of culture per capita. I regularly review theater at American Stage and would rank it among the best companies in the South. The Palladium Theater is a historic music venue that hosts everything from classical to blues to rock to jazz. Janus Live is an iconic outdoor venue that plays host to a surprising number of name acts, given its limited capacity, and the nearby Mahaffey Theater brings in bigger acts still.
The Floridian Social (formerly the State Theater) underwent a multimillion-dollar renovation a few years ago and now has the feel of a roaring twenties supper club. Live music is available most nights, and there is often little or no cover charge. Ruby’s Elixir hosts multiple acts seven nights a week, and there is more music still at Cage Brewery (try the PB Porter!), where Dead Set Florida is the house band and an impressive number of top-tier cover bands pass through.
The east end of Central Avenue and its adjacent cross streets are home to dozens of bars and nightclubs, many of which have live entertainment. Mastry’s, the city’s oldest bar, is a personal favorite. It is a quintessential dive bar that has stood its ground as trendy gastro pubs have taken over many of the formerly gritty haunts; the same can be said of the Emerald Bar. Goodnight, John Boy is a popular disco-themed club that often sports a line that takes up most of its block, while Club 201 at the Detroit offers good live music in what was once the lobby of the city’s very first hotel.
Museum City
The category in which St. Pete most outpunches its weight, however, may be in the number of museums that call the city home. Everyone knows that the city is home to the Salvador Dalí Museum, and if you have not experienced this national treasure, you need to take corrective action. The St. Petersburg Museum of Fine Art is often overlooked, which is a shame, given its impressive collection, and the nearby St. Pete Museum of History tells the unique story of the Sunshine City.
The James Museum of Western and Wildlife Art has been a lovely edition, and if you’re into arts and crafts, the Museum of the American Arts and Crafts Movement is not to be missed. If glass art is your thing, you're in luck. Check out the Chihuly Collection, schedule a personal glass-blowing experience at the Morean Arts Center, and add a stop at the Imagine Museum for a full day of glass tranquility. The Florida Holocaust Museum is one of just three in the world. Moreover, every museum I’ve listed can be hit within one short walk downtown.
Rays Up!
St. Pete is also one of the smallest markets to have a Major League Baseball team, and the Rays' soon-to-be-built, new, state-of-the-art stadium will add another entertainment hub in the city’s historic gas plant district. In the meantime, check out the Trop before it gets the wrecking ball and cool off with a cold one at Ferg’s after the game.
Strolling Central Avenue, you will encounter a number of antique shops and stores, ranging from thrift store chic to high-end boutiques. We filled a few bags at (re)treat, across the street from the Imagine Museum, and enjoyed the relaxing effects of floatation therapy at Florida Floats Premiere Float Spa, which we discovered next to Gypsy Souls coffee house on MLK.
When it comes to the great cities of the South, places like Savannah, Charleston, New Orleans, Asheville, and Austin are the most commonly cited, in my experience. I've spent much time in those places and have always enjoyed my stay. That said, I would confidently place St. Pete at the very top of that list. Those cities have great restaurants; St. Pete simply has more of them. They have museums and vibrant nightlife; St. Pete simply has more. Some of them have waterfronts, none as beautiful, however, as St. Pete's. You can access beaches from Savannah and Charleston, but none would compare to nearby St. Pete Beach (reviewed here) or the others that dot the coast all the way to Clearwater.
In the past decade, St. Pete has come into its own like no other Florida city. Whether you're visiting for a night or a long weekend, head across the Skyway and enjoy a city that has become the crown jewel of our state.
Dennis "Mitch" Maley is a novelist, as well as an editor and opinion columnist for The Bradenton Times. In addition to his regular Sunday column, he hosts our weekly podcast and does occasional theater, restaurant, and wine reviews. He is a graduate of Shippensburg University and later served as a Captain in the U.S. Army. Click here for his bio. His novels and short story collection are available here.
