I’ve been to Daytona Beach at least half a dozen times over the past 25 years, but I’m a bit embarrassed to admit that I never took the time to see any more of Volusia County. However, on a recent weekend staycation, I learned that the area has much more to offer than the Daytona International Speedway, spring break bars, and motorcycle festivals.
Don’t get me wrong, I like all of those things, which is probably the reason I never broke from the familiar path. When I went on my own spring break decades back, I chose Daytona, and I recall fondly that which I can remember. When I still rode, Bike Week and Biketoberfest were also good reasons to cross the state, and we dropped by Froggy’s, Chris' Lounge, American Legion Post 120, and the Boot Hill Saloon for nostalgic cold ones at the outset of the trip.
At this stage of life, however —call them my gourmander days—I’m more interested in tranquil beaches, museums, historical sites, fine wine, and exceptional dining experiences. If I’m to be honest, Daytona had never been the first place to come to mind when contemplating such activities, but I have returned a reformed man ready to convert the uninitiated.
On the way in, we paid a visit to the Museum of Arts & Sciences. This Smithsonian-affiliated institution houses a collection that is both eclectic and impressive. My favorite part was the Root Family Museum, which includes one of the largest Coca-Cola memorabilia collections in the world, as the family was responsible for the design patent of the original Coca-Cola bottle. From early vending machines and advertising pieces to Model A delivery trucks and even a recreation of an early soda shop, the extensive collection drips with nostalgia.
The Root Family Museum train station is another gem. The exhibit includes two exquisitely restored, mid-century train cars, the “Dell Rapids” and the “Silver Holly,” both of which were owned and used by the Roots.
The museum also includes the Dow Gallery of American Art, the Schulte Gallery of Chinese Art, the Bouchelle Collection and the Gallery of Decorative Arts, the Cuban Foundation Museum, and the Prehistory of Florida Gallery, featuring Florida's Giant Ground Sloth skeleton. There’s also a first-rate planetarium, and the adjacent Cici and Hyatt Brown Museum of Art showcases the most extensive collection of Florida-based art in the world.
Next, we checked out the Daytona Aquarium and Rainforest Adventure, just down the road from the speedway. The Rainforest Adventure is still under construction, but the aquarium nevertheless provided us with a chance to encounter a broad array of unique sea creatures, including a rather impressive collection of exotic frogs.
Between Beach Street and the Intracoastal Waterway/Halifax River, we discovered the Riverfront Esplanade—another local gem for which Cici and Hyatt Brown were the benefactors. The beautiful promenade and botanical garden were completed in late 2023 and boast over 100 newly planted mature shade trees. There's also a mile of waterfront trail with benches and swings overlooking the river. There’s even a dog park with an agility course and a state-of-the-art splash pad.
You can pay your respects to Brownie the Town Dog, a mid-century mascot buried and immortalized by a bronze statue near the south end, where a creek with waterfalls, gardens, and even more plants and flowers grace a lovely picnic area. While on South Beach Street, stop by the Angell & Phelps Chocolates factory and pick up a half pound of mouthwatering truffles from the hundred-year-old Michigan-based chocolatier.
We wanted to stay on the beach but away from the hustle and bustle near the pier and boardwalk, much of which is still recovering after being battered by the 2022 hurricane season. Ironically, the south end of Atlantic Ave, where we found ideally cheap and spartan accommodations for a 1998 spring break trip, has been spectacularly redeveloped.
We stayed at the Max Beach Resort, an oceanfront tower two miles south of the Daytona Beach Bandshell. Originally conceived as a condo tower, developers pivoted to running it as a resort ahead of its June 2022 opening. That presents a massive advantage as both the build quality and amenities far exceed even the best hotels.
Our two-bedroom suite featured pocketed sliding doors that opened to a gigantic balcony with spectacular city and ocean views. We took full advantage of the first-rate fitness center, and the Sunrise and Sunset Terraces situated on opposite sides atop the tower but spent even more time in the oceanfront pool and jacuzzi, encouraged by the first-rate pool bar.
Our suite included every amenity you can imagine, including a fully stocked kitchen with top-tier appliances, a double oven, a sizable laundry room, and two showers. This gave us all the comforts of home, and when we awoke, the incomparable sound of waves crashing into the surf was a delightful bonus.
Think of it as the best of both worlds: five-star hotel meets top-tier vacation rental. At rates far less expensive than comparable locations on the Gulf Coast, this is a perfectly ideal resort for a staycation, especially for a family wanting to make a full week of it without having to stray off the property.
On Saturday, we took the short ride south to Ponce Inlet, home to the second-tallest lighthouse in the United States. Constructed in 1887 and measuring 188 feet 6 1/2 inches from its base to the tip of its lightning rod, you can climb 203 steps to the top for spectacular 360-degree views of the inlet, the Atlantic Ocean, and the Intracoastal Waterway.
Nearby Lighthouse Point Park is 52 acres of scenic beauty along the northern shoreline of Ponce de Leon Inlet. Walk the elevated boardwalks and nature trail and enjoy the observation tower that provides serene views of the Halifax River. With restrooms, picnic pavilions, and even a dog-friendly swimming beach area, the park can easily round out a full afternoon of excursions.
Unfamiliar with the area’s fine dining scene, we checked out the highly recommended Millie’s Restaurant in nearby Daytona Beach Shores on our first evening. Named one of the top 10 seafood restaurants in the U.S. by Yelp and voted Volusia County’s best overall restaurant last year, not to mention a gushing nod from Guy Fieri, we went in with very high expectations. A modestly rustic spot located within a nondescript strip mall was not what we were expecting—however, with a tempting menu of fresh hook-to-table, locally sourced gourmet food, Millie’s more than lived up to the considerable hype.
Millie’s participates in Daytona Beach Area Fall Fine Dining Days, offering $50 prix fixe, 3-course meals that allow for a broad sampling of the menu. Starters included an impressive smoked fish dip prepared in-house and delicious grilled street corn. A perfectly prepared grouper Francaise (also available with shrimp) and large blackened scallops over angel hair pasta with a lemon beurre blanc sauce made for delectable entrees, while the tropical bread pudding and berry bourbon biscuit cobbler more than pacified our sweet tooth.
Daytona Beach Shores is also home to Crabby Joe's Deck & Grill, a local institution reminiscent of the Rod & Reel on AMI. Thankfully, we were able to stop by for lunch on Saturday, as the restaurant just reopened last month after extensive repairs were made to the pier it is located on, which was battered by Hurricanes Ian and Nicole two years prior. There are a lot of oceanfront seafood concerns along the Volusia coast, and many of them have some variation of “crab,” “crabby,” and/or “Joe’s” in their name. But make no mistake, this is the genuine article where the only thing better than the stunning views is the steamer pot for two.
That evening, we Ubered 20 minutes north to Ormond Beach for dinner at 31 Supper Club, a nostalgic callback to the jazz-age supper clubs of yore. We arrived just in time to snag a table near the musical duo, which was just about to start things off when we ordered our drinks. As I’ve previously lamented, the term “craft cocktail” has become so overused that it barely holds meaning. However, it suffices to say that 31 has a drink menu that would surely catch even Sean Murphy’s eye.
She's a Lady is a delicious take on the classic White Lady, which originated in 1919 at London's Savoy Hotel. Blending Grey Whale gin, lemon, and Cointreau, ice cold and strained into a martini glass, this refreshing cocktail packs a serious wallop. My personal favorite was The Fitzgerald, a post-prohibition libation featuring Grey Whale Gin with zesty lemon, simple syrup, and a touch of Angostura bitters. Another all-star was the Tequila Thyme, which blends Don Fulano Reposado Tequila in homemade honey and thyme syrup, complemented by a touch of zesty lime. Be careful; this one slides almost too easily on a humid evening.
Escargot and lobster bisque were standout starters, while fruits de mer and pistachio-crusted seabass make for very worthy seafood options. However, something about the supper club ambiance cried out for a big, thick, juicy steak, so I went with their perfectly tender 20oz Demkota Ranch choice ribeye and had zero regrets, even when the old meat sweats woke me from my evening slumber. Even after all that food, we couldn't pass up an opportunity to split a piece of the peanut butter pie we had heard so much about and found it sinfully delicious.
As we had arrived ahead of our reservation, we dipped into a quaint restaurant and bar we had noticed during our drop-off. Rose Villa Ormond Southern Table and Bar seemed like a good place to grab a pre-dinner glass of wine, and it would prove to be our favorite discovery of the trip. Housed in a stunning 19th-century mansion, the richly appointed rooms once served as an exclusive adjunct to Henry Flagler’s Ormond Hotel, accommodating A-list guests like John D. Rockefeller when they wished to enjoy greater privacy than the famous hotel could provide.
We simply couldn't get over the visually arresting decor—walls (and some ceilings) covered in heavy, ornate wallpaper, period-perfect furniture throughout, a small upstairs bourbon bar reminiscent of Mr. Ringling's famous personal bar in the Ca’ d’Zan, and even an antique toilet that flushed via a ceiling mounted chain. The building serves not only as the perfect ambiance for a romantic outing but as a sort of functional museum of its era rather than a thematic reproduction.
We could not pass up an opportunity to return, so when we learned they offered a Sunday brunch menu, we chose it as the perfect farewell. We were lucky enough to be seated in the upstairs Teddy Roosevelt room, where we enjoyed biscuits and jams on par with anywhere in the South. The avocado toast, which featured a sizable grilled baguette, avocado, poached egg, hollandaise, tomato relish, and brabant potatoes, proved far more inspired than any offering under that menu title, while goat cheese and perfect pieces of andouille elevated the shrimp and grits to near perfection.
Even at our whirlwind pace, a weekend was not nearly enough time to soak in all that Volusia County has to offer, so we will definitely be returning for a more extended stay soon. Meanwhile, I highly recommend you consider the greater Daytona Beach area when planning your next Florida staycation.
Dennis "Mitch" Maley is a novelist, as well as an editor and opinion columnist for The Bradenton Times. In addition to his regular Sunday column, he hosts our weekly podcast and does occasional theater, restaurant, and wine reviews. He is a graduate of Shippensburg University and later served as a Captain in the U.S. Army. Click here for his bio. His novels and short story collection are available here.
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